How to Spot Quality in Fine Jewellery (Even if You’re Not an Expert)
- mariaxgorbea
- May 22
- 3 min read
When it comes to fine jewellery, you don’t need a loupe and a gemology degree to spot quality - just a few simple tips, a keen eye, and a sense of what makes a piece feel truly special.
At Vera McCullough Jewellery, we believe every customer should feel confident and informed when choosing or commissioning a piece. Whether you’re shopping for a meaningful gift, redesigning a family heirloom, or treating yourself, here’s how to tell if a piece is made to last.
1. Weight & Feel
High-quality jewellery feels luxurious in your hand. Even delicate pieces should have a certain substance to them. If something feels overly light or flimsy, it may be made with lower-density materials or poorly constructed.
Tip: When in doubt, compare how a piece feels next to another you know is solid gold or sterling silver.
2. Finishing Touches
Look closely at the finish. Smooth, polished surfaces, clean lines, and no sharp or rough edges. Prongs should sit neatly around stones, not crooked or scratchy. Every surface should feel carefully considered.
Tell-tale signs of poor quality: Visible glue, uneven soldering, jagged edges, or lack of symmetry.
3. Stone Settings
In fine jewellery, gemstones should be securely and beautifully set. Bezel, claw, or pavé - no matter the setting, it should protect the stone while showing it off.
What to check: Gaps between the stone and the setting, wobbly stones, or misaligned claws are red flags. A stone that feels loose is more likely to fall out.
4. Symmetry & Balance
Whether it’s a ring, a pair of earrings, or a pendant, balance and symmetry are key to how a piece sits and sparkles when worn. Asymmetry can be a design choice, but it should always feel intentional.
5. Hallmarks & Metal Purity
Quality jewellery will be hallmarked to confirm the type and purity of metal — such as 9k, 14k, or 18k gold, or 925 sterling silver. This tiny stamp is your assurance of authenticity.
Bonus tip: Don’t be afraid to ask about metal content or request a certificate for larger gemstones or bespoke pieces.
6. Craftsmanship in Detail
True craftsmanship shows up in the little things: how flush the stones are, the quality of the engraving, how a clasp works, or how seamlessly a ring is finished underneath.
In bespoke jewellery, attention to detail is everything.
7. The Story Behind the Piece
One of the most powerful indicators of quality? The story. Who made it, how it was made, and why. Jewellery made with care, by someone who takes pride in their craft, simply shows.
Final Thoughts
Even if you’re not an expert, trusting your instincts goes a long way. A quality piece will feel right. Beautifully made, thoughtfully designed, and finished with intention. And when in doubt, ask questions. A jeweller who values their work will be happy to walk you through every detail.
At Vera McCullough Jewellery, we’re proud to create pieces that don’t just look beautiful, they’re crafted to last a lifetime (and then some). From bespoke designs to heirloom redesigns, we treat every detail with the love and attention it deserves.
Curious about creating your own bespoke piece or want advice on something you already own? We’re always happy to help. Get in touch here or visit our studio to begin your own jewellery journey.
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